pole to pole with ME

Friday, February 03, 2006

Lovin´ the boat!

Here I am, fresh from a four day sea voyage that was supposed to have taken three. Lu and I hopped the ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales on Monday afternoon, and the sailing was smooth and sunny for two days. Then, in the wee hours of Wednesday, one of the engines failed, the power went out, and we very nearly ran aground on several occasions in the two hours following as the crew tried to navigate a narrow channel with half-power. Sounds scary, but most of the passengers were too drunk to care. Not I, of course! (gasp of incredulity) We´d already turned in for the night, but got up to investigate when the engine stopped. We weren´t sure whether or not to have our warm clothes on, in case we had to abandon ship. As long as we weren´t sinking, though, the ship was really the best place to be, engines or no. The area through which we sailed is some of the least populated and rugged terrain on earth. Deep fjords with rocky shores and glaciers tumbling into the sea. Awesome is too mild a word.
As for the trouble with the ship, it all turned out all right. The malfunction stranded us overnight in a bay, until the marine authority could come to the ship and determine the remaining engine sound enough to make the rest of the trip. Some passengers chose to transfer to another boat in the morning to try to make connecting busses and flights, but most of the backpackers just shrugged and smiled. Mañana. We´ll get there when we get there. The crew kept feeding us three meals a day, and there was still beer in the pub, so all was dandy. As it was, we all got an extra night accomodation plus meals for no extra money, and that´s all happy in the world of the backpacker.
The ship exceeded our expectations on many levels.
What we had thought would be a chaotic, foul-smelling, cramped and dirty boat turned out to be damned fine luxury for the price paid! We booked dorm beds on the Magallenes ferry, dreading 22 unwashed people in a tiny, airless room below sea level, in cuddling distance to the engine. To our delight, the dorms were more like cabins - bright and relatively airy for ship´s quarters, with only four people actually sharing a space, and curtains for privacy around each generous single bunk bed. This company has clearly figured out their market. The whole trip was tailored for the trekker, with informative talks and films, plus parties and bingo in the evening.
Wonderful.
For the first time, we were truly forced to relax. Nothing to plan, no place to be, except at meals (rigidly scheduled and eagerly anticipated). We dozed, read books, attended the activities, had the leisure to chat & made many new friends from all over the world. Most of them will be on the Torres del Paine trails in the coming week.
Curious about the sights? Search Torres del Paine, and check it out. Breathtaking. Sharp towers of granite, carved by glaciers, and surrounded by the remnants of the same, with flowery meadows and glacial lakes dotting the valleys. This hike (epic at 10 days) is a world classic, and I can´t wait!
So, dear friends, I will be out of contact for a little while. It´s all for a good cause, though my poor feet are not likely to agree with that sentiment until it´s all over.
Here´s hoping for good weather!
Ciao
L

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