Strollin´ on the beach

The last two days have been heaven and hell, simultaneously. How is that possible, you ask? Well, imagine a long walk beside the Pacific surf - the sound of seagulls in the air, soft sand underfoot, and a misty haze surrounding you as the damp sand sends its moisture into the sky when kissed by the sun. Ahh. How lovely.
Now imagine that same beach four hours later. You are still on it, still walking. Sand is in every crevice of body and backpack. Muscles ache from trudging through mile after mile of beach. Legs are so sunburnt it feels like the skin will split with every step. Not so lovely.
Yep, we hiked 10k on a sandy beach, then some more on trails, probably about 22 kilometres by the time we pitched our tent in a farmer´s field among the geese and horses and innumerable dogs. Needless to say, we were a little tired. We scarfed down a mouthwatering concoction of sundried tomatoes, sausage and instant mashed potatoes (believe me, it was the best thing I´d ever tasted after a day like that) and tucked into the tent. Lulled by the sound of the waves once again, we slept like rocks, despite the feeling that my legs were going to self-combust from the sunburn. The next day, we got up and did the long walk on the beach all the way back...
Now I have aloe gel and life is all better.
We´ve treated ourselves very kindly on rest days, and got a cute little cabaña in Castro (capital of the island of Chiloé) where we can cook and do laundry. The contrast of camping to these forays into civilization is a bit shocking to the system, but Lu and I both like our creature comforts. Plus, it´s heavy to carry so much red wine, so we have to stop in town sometimes. We are also questioning the sanity of hiking the 8 day Torres del Paine circuit with 60 lbs on each of our backs, but we are committed now!
Tonight we head to Puerto Montt, from which we catch the ferry south to Patagonia tomorrow. The journey will take 3 1/2 days, and we are hoping for good weather! The island of Chiloé has been fantastic, and I am sad to leave, but we´ve done what we came here to do. I will not miss the horseflies!
Happy trails! Seeya at the South Pole!